‘A town built on fishing and fun’: why Great Yarmouth will always be my first resort

From family-run fairgrounds to a spectacular circus, traditional seaside fun is alive and kicking in the Norfolk coastal town where I grew up

‘Circus is an art form of the people. I fundamentally believe that.” I’m in Great Yarmouth for a long weekend, standing in the ring at the Hippodrome circus, bristling from that particular crackle of energy you get from an empty stage. Ringmaster Jack Jay, the fourth generation in a family of impresarios, is fresh from his annual scouting trip in search of international acts to tread the boards in Norfolk: “We have artists whose CV reads ‘Macau, Las Vegas, Great Yarmouth’,” he tells me. “That’s the standard we aim to bring in.”

The Hippodrome is a national treasure, one of only two purpose-built circuses left in the country (the other is part of Blackpool Tower, which Jack’s father also managed, briefly, in the 1980s). Founded in 1903 by equestrian George Gilbert, who ran off to join the circus aged 11, it’s an ornate building with art nouveau flourishes. But the real extravaganza is the sinking floor, restored by the Jays in 1979. Using original mechanisms, the ring is transformed into a pool with fountains and synchronised swimmers for the spectacular finale. I’ve seen the show countless times and it never loses its magic.