Rachel Roddy’s recipe for chicken scaloppine with mushrooms and marsala | A kitchen in Rome

A melt-in-the-mouth dish of fried tenderised chicken in a mushroom and sweet wine sauce

The term escalope is borrowed from the old French escalope, meaning “shell or carapace”, which is likely to be borrowed from the old Norse skalpr (“sheath”) or Middle Dutch schelpe (“shell”). This explains the shape, and why the word evolved to describe a slice of meat that has been pounded until it’s the same slimness all over.

This week’s recipe is inspired by the restaurant Bocca Di Lupo in Soho, which a few months ago, after a night at the theatre with my parents, was one of the few places still open and more than welcoming to walk-ins at 10.30pm. Sitting on the high stools at the end of the long, marble bar, Dad chose ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach, while Mum and I had scaloppine di pollo al marsala e funghi (thin chicken escalope with mushrooms in a soft, slightly thickened marsala sauce). The meal and wine would have been superb in any circumstance, but the feeling of relief combined with the particular thick atmosphere that fills some restaurants at that point in the evening – charged with work and pleasure but starting to wind down – made this a particularly enjoyable meal.