‘Melts beautifully on toast’: the best plant-based spreads, tasted and rated

Today’s butter alternatives are creamier, tastier and more ethical than their 1980s predecessors, but not all spread joy …

• Which brand makes the best plant milk? I tried 10 favourites to find out

Butter has a powerful place in the culinary imagination – it’s nostalgic, indulgent and rich in flavour. I love the way it holds texture, then melts into a slice of warm toast. But is that really too much to ask from a spread, let alone a plant-based one? The truth is, I haven’t eaten margarine since the 1980s – at home, it’s always butter or extra-virgin olive oil – but spreads are hugely popular. Is it mainly the convenience? Culture? Something else?

The main benefit of a spread is that it’s firm but spreadable straight from the fridge. It ought to taste good, too, but that seems to be an afterthought for many brands, which taste of seed oils and emulsifiers. It should also have a perfect melt time, so it pools slowly and satisfyingly on your toast.