Margo, Glasgow: ‘Something very special’ – restaurant review

Named after the chef’s mother, glorious Margo would make any mum proud

Sometimes a restaurant can change the whole way of thinking about a casual meal out with friends, and so it was with Jonathan MacDonald’s first Glasgow venture, Ox and Finch, back in 2014. It was all about sharing small plates that arrived whenever they were ready. There were wonderful flavours – confit pork belly, crab on sourdough toast, the tenderest rare steak with spiced cucumber and mint salad – with the kitchen in full view. You know the vibe, but sometimes it felt it was all a bit too hectic. Now in his third restaurant, Margo, MacDonald and his band of chefs, led by Robin Aitken, along with a crack front-of-house team, have perfected the experience of relaxed, elegant eating that still feels bohemian and adventurous.

Margo is in the heart of the city, in a tall narrow Victorian street. A high illuminated M at right angles above the door feels very New York and it’s minutes from public transport in all directions. That’s crucial if you are going to sample the excellent and inventive cocktails: anyone for a Yazmine – Ron Santiago, yuzushu and Campari? Or the Black Isle Blonde organic beer on draught? Or a glass of the zesty Laherte Frères Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut?