‘Hits the nose like wasabi’: the best (and worst) supermarket English mustard, tasted and rated

Complex in flavour, yet simple to make, mustard holds a strong position in condiment corner, but which jars should you be ‘as keen as …’ to taste?

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Being a dedicated sort, I tasted all 10 of these mustards straight from the jar. With watering eyes, pumping endorphins and overactive salivary glands, I licked each mustard off a spoon, then quickly cleansed my palate with plenty of milk and water to subdue the heat. But the sandwich I had at the end, with my new favourite mustard, was worth every fiery spoonful.

Mustard is intriguingly complex in flavour – powerful, umami, hot – yet easy to make. At its simplest, it is little more than fermented mustard seeds soaked in brine until viscous and bubbling. Sadly, however, many modern brands, especially the cheaper ones, see fit to include unnecessary additives, such as xanthan gum and wheat flour. And, rather predictably, the cheaper the mustard, the less actual mustard it tends to contain.