‘Delicious, glossy … beautiful hot and cold’: the best Christmas ham joints, tasted and rated

Free-range and organic gammon is hard to find in supermarkets, so we’ve gone online for the best choices for your festive table

• The best chocolate Advent calendars, tasted and rated

A generous ham on the table makes my Christmas every year. Whether you prefer green or smoked, free-range or organic, the humble ham is a cornerstone of the festive feast. If you can, go as large as possible, because bigger joints roll and tie more easily, and have a more even layer of fat that results in a better, more generous ham. And, of course, those Boxing Day leftovers are pure joy.

A good layer of fat matters, because it adds flavour and, when glazed, a delicious, gelatinous crust – in fact, that’s my favourite bit. Smooth, tender, brine-cured hams are perfect for cold cuts sliced like classic supermarket-style ham. Coarser, organic, nitrite- and nitrate-free joints are ideal for slow roasting, which gives them a much deeper, richer flavour. Nitrates and nitrites have been used for centuries to preserve meat, and help create that familiar blushed pink colour and recognisable flavour, but we’ve become more aware of the health risks they pose in the past decade or so. If you’re trying to avoid these additives, there are nitrate- and nitrite-free hams out there that are delicious, albeit darker and coarser.