‘Butter is a perception’: inside the UK’s first plant-based Michelin-starred restaurant

Plates in east London is a meat and dairy-free space, but its chef and owner hates the word ‘vegan’

Kirk Haworth, the owner and head chef of east London restaurant, Plates, hates the word vegan. “At least seeing the word on a menu,” he says. “​Plant-based cooking ​i​s not a trend. Not for me, anyway. I’ve been doing it for eight years and it’s just in my soul now.” And yet this week, Haworth became the first UK chef to win a Michelin star for cooking only plant-based food.

Plates is small, with just 25 covers. There are two sittings but it’s full until the end of April. The phone is always engaged, and they can only cope with reservations today and tomorrow. For everything else, it’s send an email.